The inaugural Macquarie Island Curry-Off

A couple of years ago while living at Casey Station, I organised a Saturday night 'Curry-Off'. Some will remember the ensuing saga, with a prawn satay (not even a curry! don't get me started...) taking out first place, and a sausage curry featuring Keen's Curry Powder coming in runner up.

I swore never again, but of course when it comes to dreaming up ways to keep entertained on an Antarctic Station, sometimes old ideas get recycled.

I was confident there wouldn't be a repeat of the drama though - the gang this time round are a bit more 'culinarily inclined' (and our chef definitely wouldn't tolerate a sausage curry being cooked in her kitchen).

Fortunately I was right, and 4 budding curry chefs took up the reigns, spending at least 48 hours preparing a Saturday-night feast that transported us to India (or at least to a good Indian restaurant in Melbourne).

Voting was of course fierce, but in the end all agreed, it was our stomachs that won the day.

Jez, our winter PhD student, invests a good amount of time researching the perfect recipe

Rich, our Field Training Officer, enjoys the opportunity to work out his biceps grinding spices and making paneer

Ali, our Station Leader, marinates the lamb for her Saagwala

I pre-cook my Rogan Josh two days ahead of time to ensure optimal flavour development

Finally decided on a recipe, Jez gets to work making Masala Dosa

Annette, our actual chef (supposed to be having a day off), can't help herself and makes roti and an array of condiments

Fast forward to Saturday night, Rich (in costume) and Jez flash smiles for the camera between trying to sabotage each others dishes

Ali plates up a delicious coconut dosa dip thingy

Me (Cathryn) with Rogan Josh and an aubergine curry, Rich with Rara Chicken and Kadai Paneer, Jez with Masala Dosa, and Ali with Lamb Saagwala 

Danielle, Angus and Greg delight at the array of delights

The Macca family at our favourite local curry place

Marine debris in the Southern Ocean

Over a month-long period in June and July, our resident Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Ranger, Ranger Chris, took small groups of us out to do a marine debris survey - a fancy way to say 'picking up rubbish along the beach'.

The survey has been run intermittently for a number of years, and involves a 4-day 60km round tramping trip to Davis Point, a remote part of coastline on the western side of the island. This region is an important breeding ground for Giant Petrels, so is closed for all but 2 months of the year.

Given the area is so rarely visited, there isn't a hut there, and instead you stay in a 'shelter' - a converted water tank. It wasn't too bad, although a little squishy with 3 of us in residence. 

The trip was an interesting insight into the types of rubbish floating around in the Southern Ocean (mostly fishing boat-related) and an awesome way to get to see a part of the island that is off-limits most of the time. 

Pete (pictured), Angus, Ranger Chris and I set out on a rather cold winter's day

Lunchtime in the mud and mist - the quintessential Macca experience

Reaching Green Gorge Hut on day 1, always and excellent feeling

The fantastic view from the Green Gorge Hut balcony

Day 2 started with a steep climb up out of Green Gorge. Angus stands proudly atop a mound. Unfortunately we are not quite at the top yet...

'Just down here Cathryn....' - one of the many reasons to always be very suspicious of anything Ranger Chris tells you

At the bottom of the scree slope (Ranger Chris' recommended route down)

And the scree slope from a distance - quite fun to slide down

The end of day 2 and Davis Point Refuge (the tank in the back is the hut) - anything looked pretty good at this point

Cosy but it did the job - there are a set of bunks on each side (the top bunk sits about 30cm below the ceiling), a kitchen bench, and a bit of floor 2x1m - what more do you need?

Day 3 dawned and the rubbish hunt was on - this largely involved climbing through revolting bogs of rotting kelp - apparently the plastic bottles always hide here

Case in point

Ranger Chris with our haul - probably about 2 full rubbish bags full in 3 hours

Adding our finds to the larger bag of this year's debris - apparently this year there was a lot less on the beaches than some years, although I think this just means it has all ended up some place else

And just when we thought we were done, we found out the only way out was up the Sellick Bay 'jump up' - a 300m ascent scrambling up tussock and loose rock. It was really rubbish.

And then finally home along the very flat Macca plateau - definitely my preferred terrain

Pseudo-summer soiree

With the recent short days and wintery weather conditions, the troops here at Macca felt a touch of something summery was in order. Ever obliging, the Brits scheduled a few rounds of Wimbledon for our entertainment.

I really needed no more encouragement, and having already shipped ample supplies of Pimms (perhaps having preconceived the idea in Hobart), recruited our resident Pom, Jez Bird, to the organising committee. 

Not realising Wimbledon was in July (who knows these things) we had a slight social calendar clash with half the station, including myself, partaking in Dry July. A Wimbledon afternoon with no Pimms really wasn't an option, so I used my doctorly powers and determined that abstinence could be given a rest for the day.

Having taken care of that, advertisements were posted, quiches were made, and a ban was placed on any use of hydroponic cucumbers for a week prior.

With everything primed and ready, the only minor hiccup was getting any actual Wimbeldon footage to watch… Thwarted in several attempts, in the end we settled for watching YouTube highlights of the historic 2008 Men’s Singles Final between Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal. Never mind, it was mainly about the cucumber sandwiches anyway.

The Macquarie Island social calendar is so tight that ample advertising of any upcoming events is a must

Station Leader, Ali, makes an impressive cucumber sandwich. And look at how well the hydroponic cucumbers are faring!

Danielle lends a hand plating up cucumber, blue cheese and maple walnut bites. Pretty much everything else was pastry-based.

The long-awaited Pimms and lemonade

An afternoon tea fit for Wimbledon: caramelised onion and brie tarts, cucumber sandwiches, mushroom vol au vents, blue cheese and maple walnut pastries and cucumber slices, strawberry cupcakes, and plenty of Pimms and lemonade

Jez and I celebrate a successfully executed soiree

The carbohydrate-loaded treats prove popular

And everyone settles in for an afternoon of drinking and eating

And of course there was a spot of tennis watching

Midwinter at Macca

Midwinter's Day is a big deal in Antarctic circles. For most continental Antarctic stations it marks the mid-point of the year away, and the slow return of daylight after several weeks or months of continual darkness.

Things are a bit different here at Macca. Firstly, as our changeover occurs in March, we are really only 3 months into our year here. Secondly, we never lose the light and our shortest day is still about 6 hours long.

However, we aren't the sorts to turn down an excuse for some fun, so June the 21st was celebrated just as heartily here on our wee island.

First up was a memorial service video-broadcast from the Australian Antarctic Division Head Office in Kingston, Tasmania, to commemorate all those who have died while working in the Australian Antarctic Territory. Macquarie Island features quite highly in these statistics - its high cliffs and treacherous terrain mean we have the highest fatality rate out of the four stations. We are certainly hoping not to add to that anytime soon.

After that we braced ourselves for the midwinter swim - as the station is on an isthmus we do two 'swims' - one on the west beach and one on the east. A 'dunk' might be more accurate. We also have the added possibility of curious elephant seals or hunting orcas, so have to have several lookouts placed to ensure the waters are clear.

After a quick spa to warm up it was straight onto a hearty brunch, with enough calories to last us the rest of the week...Although of course we didn't have to wait that long, as our wonder-chef Annette put on a 9-course degustation meal in the evening. I'm still getting over it.

Finally we wrapped up the day with a variety show, karaoke, and a screening of the 1983 version of 'The Thing' (an Antarctic thriller). Every bed on station was still empty at 2am.

A midwinter's celebration that will be remembered for a long time.

Hard at work, the met observers still have to do a morning balloon release on Midwinter's Day

And they're off! A lovely sunny day for Macca, but still only 3 degrees celsius and reasonably blustery. I had to wait until the end to do my swim, just in case a medical issue cropped up...

First was beach on the west side of the isthmus

And then a long cold run over the black sand to the other side

And then the eastern side beach - a bit more treacherous with lots of slippery rocks, and a spectating elephant seal or two

Ranger Chris and me waiting patiently for our turn to do the swim. A young elephant seal takes the day's activities in her stride.

Then straight to the spa - it's really just a concrete hole in the ground we fill on special occasions, but it did the trick all right!

Part one of the brunch spread - homemade breads and danish pastries, mango chia puddings, salmon, banana loaf, and various cheeses (quite ripe by month 3)

And Danielle putting the finishing touches on part two of the brunch spread - eggs benedict and florentine, quiche, home made baked beans, sausages, and black pudding with tomato salsa

And then after not enough time at all, onto our formal dinner - Ali (our station leader) leads proceedings

Colourful canapés

Fine Macquarie Island vintage wines

All hands were on deck for plating up

Fragrant coconut lemongrass soup with tea-smoked salmon (or tofu) and kaffir lime leaves

Champagne risotto, crayfish, peas, basil oil and preserved lemon

Roast lamb loin, soft polenta, rocket, parmesan, aubergine caponata

Jez decides 9 courses is just not enough, and chef Annette obliges by bringing out some extra potato galette. He lived to regret it.

And finally onto the evenings entertainment - Danielle and Norbert perform the very weather appropriate 'Singing in the Rain' 

Chris H does a rendition of Banjo Patterson's bush poetry but with a workplace health and safety twist. Angus obliges as his assistant. 

And this years rendition of Cinderfella brings the house down (I may or may not be far-left)

The very happy Macquarie Island family
Back row from left: Jez (PhD student), Rich (field training officer), Greg (plumber), Chris B (diesel mechanic), Pete (electrician), Ali (station leader), Chris H (Tasmanian Parks Ranger in Charge), Angus (meteorological technician), Norbert (communications technician), Tim (carpenter and trades supervisor)
Front row from left: Annette (chef), Vicki (meteorological observer), me (doctor), Vicki (meteorological observer)